16th Nov – Saigon, Vietnam.
Saigon v Ho Chi Ming City. Ho Chi Ming City is the official name but the name comes from the communist revolutionary leader credited with uniting the country after the North won the war. Locals do not like this name and call it by it’s historic name of Saigon. And Wow. It was amazing. We headed off at 7am and our driver was waiting for us. The drive to Saigon was about 70 minutes with good sites along the way.
Saigon has a population of nine million people and is the largest city in Vietnam. There are five million scooters – and I was disappointed to have only seen 4,867,364 of them! Oh my! SO MANY SCOOTERS.
They had scooter only lanes. And it is madness – but perfectly efficient and well flowing madness. These scooters did not just carry a person. They were beasts of burden. Most things that needed moving could be moved on a scooter. I saw a man carrying two steel roof trusses – at least 5 meters long. Quiet a few with ladders. Some with trailers, some with the load in their arms. Many with huge piles of boxes behind them. Or two 20 kg bags of rice.
They talk on the phone, they talk to each other, they sip their coffees, they text. Amazing. I kept seeing drinks in plastic bags. Like Starbucks drink cups but in tiny singlet plastic bags – with the handles. I finally realised it’s so they can hang them on their scooters while riding. Like a cup holder. They had hooks there for them and would reach down and have a drink.
And they don’t stop. They slow down and weave. Truly amazing and so very skilled. You might turn left around a corner and scooters are coming from about six different directions. And they just weave around you. Some are going the wrong way up the road, but that’s OK, they do it well. They are like a river that flows around a log. And everywhere the pavements are covered in bikes. Parked four deep. Don’t know how you get yours out if you leave work early.
The Rex Hotel. Very grand, and is the place where the term ‘five o’clock follies’ was coined. During the Vietnam War the reporters would meet up here each evening to hear the daily lists.
The famous roundabout where Artemis Fowl sat on Dong Khoi street “Watching the local teenagers circle the square on mopeds”.
There is a large French influence with many wonderful old building around the city such as The Post Office. Notre Dame Cathedral.
There were many groups having photos today as they take the wedding photos a few weeks before the actual wedding.
The Post Office. We visited the sight of the famous hotel where the last US citizens escaped Saigon after the fall on April 30, 1975. The building is to be torn down. Someone bought the balcony as a souvenir; yes, bought the balcony and took it away.
Lunch was at a place called ‘Pho 2000’. After the USA re established diplomatic relations with Vietnam in 2000, President Clinton when to Vietnam. This business is where he ate. They are very proud of it. He ate Pho – a sensational noodle soup.
They still have the table that Clinton sat at with his menu laminated there.
Then lots of temples including the Phuoc Hai Pagoda (Lucky Sea Temple) with it’s tortoise pond.
The most striking thing about Saigon was the motor scooters and their efficient way of travelling. It was amazing. So smooth. So little fuss. Just amazing. The bike traffic flows like water. When crossing a road – you just go. Don’t hesitate, don’t change your speed and it just flows around you. Brilliant. And the lady riders dress so beautifully and look stunningly elegant.
They all drink iced coffee as they ride. In plastic cups inside plastic bags.
Another brilliant day.
Next tab – Nha Trang