Dubai

DUBAI – Friday 3^rd May

The ship arrived into Dubai at 2pm. Sail in was lovely. Water cannons greeted us.
The increasing buzz as we got closer was cool. Most of the staff up here hadn’t been to Dubai so it was very exciting. The Burg Khalifa finally showed its self through the haze. 
The captain took us into the new pier with no worries. Through a tiny gap. We are the biggest ship to ever dock here.

Dubai is starting to suffer financially but there are still massive buildings popping up everywhere. The Burg Khalifa is the tallest building in the world – 829 metres. They were building an even bigger one. But then the Saudis announced they were building one 998 metres high. So very quickly a planned addition was announced. A tower is being added to the top bringing the height up to 1200 metres. That is just crazy!
Apparently there were 25% of the worlds cranes operating in Dubai a few years ago.

We then headed out of the ship for our evening tour –  a Bedouin desert safari. We were picked up in our 4x4s and off we went.
First stop was at the Camel Racing track. We got to go up the starting gate. A gigantic structure and platform. The starting boxes look much like big stables. The camel are led up to the line and off they go. Robot monkeys whacking away. Passengers in cars following on an inside track controlling the ‘monkeys’. Making them whack the camels with their crops. 
I still haven’t managed to visit here on  day the camels are racing….but I will.
At official races, prize money is in the millions  – of US dollars.

We then saw the stable guys out exercising the camels riding one and leading four more. All dressed up in stable colours. For the next 20 ks all the land was camel things. Training complexes with their giant stables, feed shops, A massive Camel Hospital. And trucks and trucks of Lucerne hay – the only crop grown in the UAE. And hundreds and hundreds of camels out working. We saw some camels in the back of trucks. They travel lying down.

After turning onto a minor road we stopped at some sand hills to play and take photos. The sand is quiet fine – and filled your shoes quickly. It was really hard to walk on as it was so soft but the patterns in the sand were amazing.

Then a visit to a huge pen of camels. One came up and nibbled on my fingers.

We then headed off to the place we were having dinner. First was the camel ride. But it was only a pony ride in a circle.
Then into the ‘camp’ for dinner and entertainment.
I met a falcon and had fun patting her – and holding her. So beautiful.

A belly dancer performed then a nice dinner. But after than was a fire dancer. This guy danced while spinning burning things.

Very impressive. But then he started to take mouthfuls of kero and dance around – then would spit out huge fireballs HUGE.
His self-control must have been amazing – as some routines would last two minutes with him shooting out flames five or six times. With a mouthful of kero. Pretty amazing.

As we headed off – us and a few hundred 4×4 we got to see the locals out having a Friday night out.
Today was Friday. Friday being the Sabbath for the Muslim people. After Mosque many of them head out into the desert for family picnics. Just of the road side in huge groups, eating and being together. Thousands and more locals. Ramadan is due to start on Saturday night, so it was an extra special night.

There were also heaps of normal cars. And heaps of sand drifts across the roads. Not a good combination. In some parts the road was almost covered. One and a half lanes of sand. We only saw one accident!
And back to the ship by 10pm. The ship was overnighting in Dubai

DUBAI – Saturday 4th May

Up at 7am. Not fun.

A day trip to Al Ain – the oasis city. Today we really took the path less travelled.

We left the Emirate (state) of Dubai and headed off into Abu Dhabi –  towards Oman.
Ali Ain is the second largest city of Abu Dhabi. Around 800,000 people live in this city built around the site of the natural and historically important oasis. Humans have been living and farming date palms for thousands of years on this site

It’s known as the Green City due to is endless supply of water. Everywhere else in the United Arab Emirates gets it water from the mountains near Dubai or desalination. They are not shy to use it there, but in Al Ain the place is so lush, the taps must run all day. Not just trees and gardens all around the city, but whole hill tops of green around an important person’s house. 

The 200k drive up the fantastic roads was great. Past the camel race track and the police training complex where they are training with hover vehicles. They are a cross between drones and motor bikes! They will drive along the road, then pop up to pass heavy traffic. They will be unveiled the world, here at the World Expo next year.

Also saw the K9 training complex. Not sure if they will be able to fly.

Another tech giant they are working on is a ‘Hyperloop’ to transport people from the cities of Dubai to Abu Dhabi. 13 minutes in a friction free, vacuum tube, travelling at speeds of…….. 1,200 ks.    

The sky has been very sandy. Huge haze. Normal for this time of year.
Our first stop was up the mountain Jebel Hafeet, the highest mountain on the chain running from UAE to Oman. 1700 meters high with a long windy and steep road. Our little bus did make it. It worked hard, but got there. We saw a truck down the mountain that didn’t make it.

The mountain just juts up out of the desert. Flat sand then these big rocky outcrops, like a spine. The rocks were amazing.  A conglomerate rock with pieces not gravel sized, but about 100-150mm. Then a beautiful limestone cap. Really Orange.

The view down was flat and …. hazy. But very cool. Desert – sand forever.  

Then super green patches – thanks irrigation.

And one of the ugliest housing development I have ever seen. Acres and acres of the exact same house, all in straight lines. In the haze we couldn’t even tell that they were houses.  They looked like land plots with an orange pergola at each end. 

The zoom lens showed is otherwise.

The car park up there had many scars on the bitumen where cars have struggled up the hill then burst into flames. Opps.

We learnt more about the camel industry. It is massive. Not just racing camels. There is a large milk industry – drinking and chocolate making. Also a massive meat market. But the best one of all is the Camel Beauty Pageant. Huge. All across the Arab nations. 

Three of the biggest attributes are large solid humps, long necks with the correct curl and large drooping bottom lips. 

At the major even of the year held in Saudi Arabia last year, the major prize is 13 mill US.

At the latest event there was a major scandal. Camels were caught to have Silicon implants in their humps. And Botox and nerve blockers for the lower lips. I guess the neck is a bit hard to alter. 

You see all kinds of amazing cars roaring up the highways. But, I leaned today that it is not the make of the car that is the prestige symbol. Most anyone (!) can afford a Maserati. It’s the number plates that matter. A Maserati or a rolls Royce with a five digit number plate is a wanna be rich person. It’s the two digit plates that count. Often on a normal, car as that is the main car. The plate “D 5” Sold recently.  Almost 10 million US Dollars. For a number plate. If a two digit plate pulls into the parking at a hotel, staff are notified that someone important has arrived.

I still haven’t seen someone walking a cheetah on a lead yet though. 

Lunch was at a fancy hotel and was sensational. So very good.

Truly authentic dishes with humus like silk and meat samosas.

Luquaimat and date syrup was fantastic. A small fried ball of dough covered in the best syrup. Liquid dates. Amazing.

Super quality authentic food.   

And then we end to the Camels markets. So exciting. 

Dozens and dozens of pens with 10s of camels in each. 

Many of the mares had fancy costumes on, like a bra harness that stopped the babies drinking. So many cute babies. This market is for meat and milk camels, not racing camels. The pens were lovely with shade and bedding. The water troughs were massive. Tall and huge. And giant bales of lucerne hay. And outside most pens, was a person sleeping / guarding them.
A few pens had people bidding on animals.

They also sold other livestock.  Mainly goats and sheep and some cattle. One person bought a goat kid and put it into the back of the ute. Probably for the pre Ramadan feast that needs a freshly slaughtered goat.

The guys loved it if we would cuddle the babies. Not sure if we were good luck, or if they were just lovely guys. But they were all calling out “Australia. Come here. Hold mine”.

I have never loved Dubai. I don’t like the feeling there. Sterile and ….. the locals look down at you like you are poo on the pavement. Have also heard many stories about the ‘slave like treatment’ of the Indian and Pakistani workers t at are brought in. But he feeling in Al Ain was so different. These guys were so friendly and lovely.

Much fun, but so hot. By this time it was well over 40.      

The Palace museum was interesting. It was one of the palaces until recent times and was set up as it was. Some beautiful buildings and rooms.

But hot. It was backing onto our next stop – the Oasis.

Al Ain Oasis. I always thought an oasis was like a dam in the middle of the desert with a few palm trees and some camels.
But this one covers 1,200 hectares. Amazing. The UNESCO area has more than 100 species of plants growing there. And 147,000 palm trees. And all based on a spring that pumps water up – an endless supply. It is now surrounded by forts and buildings.

The oasis is full of ‘falja’ – irrigation trenches taking water to each plot. These (well not these concrete reproduction ones – the original ones) have been used here for thousands of years. Water is flushed through and sent to each plot.
There was no water flowing while we were there but the temperature was so much cooler. And the trees were beautiful.
We then came out of the ‘forest’ and walked along the walled pathways, that in other conditions may have been beautiful. But with the temperature at 42 and walking down a paved path with high walls and a blazing sun was not fun. In-fact it was nasty. Some of the group went back to the bus as soon as we left the ‘forest’. They were the smart ones. We stopped at the half way point – with a little food van. But they were running stock down for Ramadam. And hilariously had NO WATER! In an oasis. Would have been even funnier if we were not so hot.
30 minutes later a dripping and thirsty half group arrived back at the bus.

We all jumped into the bus so glad of the air con, only to drive a few blocks to the next spot. Only half of the group got out as it was even hotter now. But Qasr Al Muwaiji was an amazing building. The birthplace and childhood home of Sheikh Khalifi bin Zayed Al Nahyan – the current Sheik and president of the UAE.  
The building had been extensively renovated. So wasn’t at all original. But the new parts were ultra-modern and it was a stunning fusion of modern glass and very old construction.  And the air conditioning was sensational. Huge floor vents that we all stood over and mimicked Marylyn Monroe.

Then off we headed back up the highway to Dubai. More interesting things to see along the way.

Sadly we saw a bus of people from the “Work Camps”. We asked the guide if he would talk about them. The stories are true. Workers are imported from India and Pakistan and taken to camps. Their passports are ‘held’ and they spend two years working on “road and building gangs:. The buses looked just like the prison buses in movies like “Cool Hand Luke” with sad guys sitting in them. Apparently they work 12 hour days and are often an hour or two form the camps.

Another overnight in Dubai. Today was turn around day –so it was sad to have fair welled many of our friends who were only doing one leg.

Sleep.

Monday 5^th May – Dubai
No visit to Dubai or the Middle East is complete without a trip to the spice markets. 

Day three in Dubai was a short day so a group of us headed off on a taxi to the Spice Souk. Seven of us crammed into one taxi. Funny. And warm.

The souk was wonderful as always. The colours, and the care with which they arrange their produce. Amazing. Everything looked stunning. Bowls of flower petals and dried things. They would make amazing potpourri dishes. But alas – damn you Australian bio security.  Also thank you Australian bio security.

One man was showing us all of his products. One item was a crystal from the mountains of Iran. He was burning it on tiny charcoal blocks.

He passed it by our noses and we all sniffed it in. All seven of us had the exact reaction.

Head thrown back and “Wooo” by us all, then “wow. It sure cleans the sinus”

Amazing. So powerful yet a cold smoke.

Great stuff. A few of us did buy some as it can also be used in hot water to inhale. You don’t need the charcoal burner.

Later we were standing outside another shop, when a man came up with something. Maybe a spray. Within 2 seconds all of us were coughing. Hard. No idea what it was. But he disappeared. Guess he knew none of us would be buying it. Or maybe it was a tourist repellent for people who don’t buy anything from their shop.

We wander further. Down through the fabric section then into the local markets. So many rolls of the plastic tablecloth stuff that granny’s used to have.

Then the household section. Gigantic cooking pots. Those little round plastic hair brushes that were around years ago. Massive strainer dishes.

Such an eclectic mix of products. 

It was then around the corner to the Gold Souk. I’d only had a quick look on previous visits and never gone right inside. It just didn’t look interesting. 

I didn’t know it went in like the spice soul. 

Pretty amazing. Shop after shop selling gold. Most of it quite horrid. Some of it looked like the kind of costume jewels that I would buy for $20 and love. But these were $6,000 US. 

One shop we went into had amazing air conditioning. It also had the world’s biggest ring. A bit silly as it wasn’t really a ring. Much too big for the biggest giant to wear as a bracelet.  But still – another world record for Dubai. And that’s what matters. 

Another necklace I didn’t hate was $12,000US. 

Many of the ships had doormen. Trays of drinks and snacks were out.

The Mufti went out and looked at the moon last night and declared that Ramadan is not to start today. So I could have a drink. 

But that was nothing.  Some of the things for sale were insane.

An over dress of chain mail – 24 carrot.

A “bib” type thing that would reach the feet of a tall man. 

And I will admit that it made me a bit sad and uncomfortable to be standing about literally billions of dollars of gold, while so many do without.  

Then back to the ship for air conditioning. We came bac in two taxis. It was far to hot to cram in.

I am trying something decadent this cruise. The Ultimate Dinning Package. 

$20 a day and I can eat at any specialty restaurant that is open as often as I want.

My aim is to plan and execute the ultimate progressive dinner. 

But to start … I popped into Izumi for some Seaweed Salad and a plate of salmon sashimi for lunch. Normally about $19 so this was a good start. 

I know I shall not use that amount every day, but on other days I will. And it will also be healthier. I will not feel the need to eat all the food as I have paid the cover charge.  Example. Chops is now $60 to just walk in and pay for. 

Speaking of Chops we had Geoff’s birthday dinner there tonight. Fun night.

And then sleep as tomorrow is OMAN.

Who plans FOUR port days in a row in counties where the temperature is over 40 and the humidity is high!!!!!

I know I could choose to stay on the ship in the cool.  But that’s not going to happen while there are exciting things to see. Hahaha

And anyway. It’s only going to be 36 in Oman tomorrow.  Joy!

Next page – Oman.

Oman