As we neared the coast it was so exciting to see the pack ice starting. Within minutes we were flying over pack ice with a total coverage of the sea – amazing. The patterns were fantastic. 
Then we crossed the coast line and saw the glaciers flowing down to the ocean. The land was extremely rocky. Huge smooth rocks, like poured toffee. With glaciers snaking between them. And then suddenly the Ice Cap. You read about the Greenland Ice Cap, covering most of the country. The whole centre of the land is a giant ice cap. Solid white, No rocks, no land, no anything. Just ice. 
Amazing.
As we landed, there were giant icebergs to the left of the run way. Talk about a welcoming committee. Then out transfer into town.
Ilulissat is a small town in western Greenland, 350ks above the Arctic Circle. It’s the third largest town in the country. Pronounced “ill loo si at”.
It is at the mouth of the Ilulissat Icefjord, a world heritage site. It has a population of under 5000 and tourism is the main industry. And fishing. Halibut.
Employment here is a bit funny. There is a strong work ethic of not turning up to work if you don’t feel like it. So people are often fired. BUT – due to a limited employment pool businesses are regularly forced to re-employ people they are fired…again and again.
The town (and everything else in Greenland) is built on the solid rock. All the houses are colourful, two level building. Snow mobiles all stacked around waiting for winter.
The centre of Greenland is a giant ice cap. Most of the country is covered by it.
Disko Bay is the huge bay at the end of the ice cap. The ice takes 3 to 12 months to work its way down from the end of the glacier – 80 ks inland, to the sea. The start of Disko Bay is shallow – only 200m deep, so many of the bergs are grounded. Thus the huge collection of giants. Some do roll around and escape and sail off around the bottom of Greenland. That’s a big ice berg that is 200 meters under the water line. These grounded bergs have tide lines.
The most famous of the Disko Bay bergs was the one that sunk the Titanic. Most of the northern hemisphere bergs come from here.
Disko Bay was settled in 985 by Erik the Red. The area was full of walrus, seal and whales. The Inuit people moved here after that.
There was a “little ice age” in the 15th century and the area was abandoned by the Norsemen.
The Inuit controlled the area until the Danish colonisation in the 18th century.
The Captain saw some whales and walked out the front, and told the few little kids that he could speak whale and could call them. Within seconds of him calling, there they were. The kids were amazed. “Call them again. Call them again.”
The ice colours were phenomenal. Light was perfect for bringing out the blue. Everything was so blue.
Great trip.
Our accommodation was in a little cabin apartment. A 5 minute walk to town and even a view of the bergs. The sun shone 24 hours. Only difference was that the shadows point to different direction.
Humpbacks in front of giant bergs. Lovely.
And then a visit to the village.
The village is a small one with 40 people. There are no road systems in Greenland. Everywhere is reached by sea or by plane.
This village is an old whaling place.
It was wonderful.
Again it is built on the most stunning rock platforms. These tiny houses sell for $200,000 Euro. Tiny timber houses with no power, water or sewerage….but the view was amazing.
Toilets are (not) long drops. A bucket with a heavy plastic bag. When the bag is full it is tied off with a metal tie and put out in a metal box (to keep the dogs out), until the pan man comes and collects them. And a bucket of water for the hand basin.
All of the utilities (that there are) to the town run on the surface in large pipes.
There were many sled dogs. All chained up on their rocks basking in the sun. And great looking dogs. What you would expect them to look like. Old school spitz types, big powerful animals with heavy coats. Not like the kelpie looking things you see in North America. Not the kind of dogs you would pat…. BUT…. The pups were loose and friendly. They are the ones you can pat, scratch and play with. They loved my scarf, then one got the lens cap off my camera as it dangled down. He brought it back a few minutes later – because it was stuck to his tooth. We had fun there.
The adult dogs were all chained at perfect distances. A few ‘fights’ broke out. One with three dogs. All toe to toe – less 300ml, straining on their chains and hurling abuse at the others.
Lunch was at the local restaurant – the source of income from the tourists. Cheapest meal we have had for a long time. Cost us $56 for two good meals. YAY. My meal was halibut, cod, smoked halibut and prawns. Delicious. We pre ordered our meals. One vegetarian, one not. Helens dish was all vego. Mine was all meat! LOL.
The restaurant ha a huge ‘H8’ on the top, a historic grid reference for pilots. 
I was very excited to see cod fish drying in the sun. I’ve seen it on many TV shows so wanted to see it.
There was also tiny birds drying. Guess they don’t stuff them inside a dead sheep to ferment anymore.
What a stunning place. Of course on the boat trip on one hour each way we saw amazing bergs and many humpbacks. We saw a humpback do a huge breach. Too far away for photos but awesome to see. How does something that heavy throw itself so far out of the water. Not a bad way to spend a day.
And then our third trip.
Tour 3 – A cruise around Disko Bay. But this time it was a midnight cruise.
And this one was totally mind blowing. The light was amazing. So soft.
We watched the sun set – just, just below the horizon. Stunning sunset with great colours, but it didn’t go low enough to loose light. Just shadows. Then everything had a pink glow to it.
So cruising around the best icebergs in the world with a soft pink glow! Then the huge full moon showed itself. And guess what? It was not the perfectly round moon we see from the ‘normal’ latitudes. It was … a bit squashed. Funny.
And then lets top off the scene – soft light, amazing icebergs, giant pink moon – let’s chuck in humpbacks rolling around in the foreground!
FANTASTIC!
And on the one hour trip back…..through more bergs and wonderful things – 80% of the people on board slept of played on their phones. Also amazing!
Back home to bed by 2am. Still full light – just no shadows until about 3 am. Then the shadows fell the other way.
Saturday 5th August
A travel day today. Back to Iceland then a few hours drive to our first night. The Greenland airport is very old school. No on line check in. No security. Just read the sign that says things like NO Grenades, dynamite, nitro glycerine, ice skates or hand cuffs in your hand luggage.
And of course pay internet – that is too slow for photos.
Greenland was amazing. Now for the huge road trip around Iceland.
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