Day 10. 12th Sept. Rio De Janeiro to Lima.
Rio was so amazing we decided we needed to see it from the air. So off we went for another helicopter ride. First a stop at the lagoon with great bird life. Great Egret and a not too common Cochi Heron. As well as frigate birds and vultures.
The flight around The Redeemer and the beaches – Cocoacabana and Ipanema with views over Sugarloaf was fantastic.
Was awesome to see a workman abseiling down the Redeemer applying what looked like giant patches of gaffa tape. See, it does fix all things.
That was followed by a sensational lunch and a cocktail with – dark chocolate, Bourbon, passionfruit and fizz. Amazing.
Then a 6 hr flight to Lima Peru. Many months before the trip we had decided to get them to upgrade us from economy to Premium. Worth every cent, even if just for this flight!
Rio you were fantastic. I understand some of the hype.
Day 11. 13th Sept. Lima
The day started with a Lima City Tour. Lima, one of the driest major cities in the world. They get about 50ml a year mostly in the form of sea fog. The tropical heat is moderated by the cold Humboldt Current that flows northward up the coast. So for us to get rain there was amazing.
We went to the historic area and walked around. Down many streets.
The visit to 16th-century Santo Domingo Convent, one of Peru’s oldest churches, was wonderful but was for far too long.
We then waited in a street for coffee, while teh guide went to get us piping hot Churros. She came bak and off we went.
Plaza Mayor (Main Square), the historical centre of Lima. Although most of the buildings of the original city were lost in the earthquake of 1746, it was still impressive.
As was the changing of the guards at Government Palace. We then went to a money changer – had to be sure we all had tipping money.
She then cut out a few activities as “we were too slow”. The bus dropped most off at the hotel but a few of us continued on to.
I went to Huaca Pucllana the pyramid-shaped temple. A ceremonial and archaeological center built in the fourth century – considered a sacred village by the Incas.
And then down to the Miraflores Boardwalk for a quick look at the coastline views and to see Paddington Bear statue – who of course comes from the “darkest Peruvian Jungles”. A fact, that the Peruvian people were relatively unaware of until the Paddington movie.
Dinner that night was back at Huaca Pucllana. What a fantastic night. Amazing food in a stunning restaurant overlooking the ruins. Pisco Sours were of course consumed.
Day 12. 14th Sept. Peruvian Amazon.
Welcome to the jungle. We flew into Port Maldonado. It looked just like a small African town. Tuk Tuks, shops spilling out everywhere. Some tar roads, many dirt. People and animals everywhere. Hopped into a bus and our luggage was thrown up onto the roof – literally. At the office we sorted our bags, taking what we needed for the next three days, changed clothes and back into the bus with our packed duffle bags thrown back onto the roof. The bus took us up a rickety road for 90 min. Through orchards and crop lands.
It was then down the first of many treacherous staircases to the river. Long long flights of straight steps without handrails (and this timber staircase turned out to be the best) and onto our long boat for the 2 hour ride to our lodge.
We were given our packed lunch of a rice salad wrapped in banana leaf and watched the sites unfold as we cruised up the Maldonado River, with the Amazon Jungle on the side.
A huge brown river with very steep banks. Similar to the western NSW Rivers. It would be an amazing sight in the wet.
We saw Cappaburra, Cayman Crocs, a huge number of butterflies feeding on the Mineral Licks. River banks were full of minerals that insects and birds need.
The stairs up to our lodge were not nearly as civilized as the steep one with no rails. This was a mc of ‘rock hopping’, huge cement steps, straight up stairs with no rails, then a few flights of nice steps but there were always bullants on the rails so you couldn’t use them. Then a track on the flat, back down a gully and back up then another 500m on the flat.
But we arrived. Our Luxury lodge was more glorified camping. But not Glamping. The rooms were in big buildings with high thatched roofs. Each building had 4-6 rooms in it. All under the one roof with no ceilings. Bed time was funny. You could hear everything everyone said…or did. So there was much “Good night John Boy”’ing going on. The morning wasn’t as much fun as some people like to get up very very early.
There was an ensuite, but no hot water. Not run out of hot water. Just NO hot water. And since the water came from cement tanks it was freezing!
After dinner some of us went for a night time jungle walk. It was dark. And the air was thick. And since I wore long sleeves and pants, and a hat it was warm. A few people wore less and one was bitten by something that burnt and stung for days.
We did see a lot. Many insects, frogs, and fireflies. A Walking Tree. This is a tree that puts out long roots from about two meters above the ground. It keeps putting out roots in the same direction and eventually the tree moves. It’s slow process but they move many meters a year.
And we found a few Trantualars. They live in holes in the ground – thank the travel gods for that and don’t roam far from the holes. Again big thanks.
The guide took a stick and poked it into the hole. After a few times the tarantula got annoyed and came out to attack. Huge beast! Saucer sized and so black and hairy. With 1cm fangs. He played with it a bit and you can hear me on the video standing behind him saying “Can we let it go back in now?” in a small voice.
Fun fact about tarantulas. Their only real predators are mosquitoes. It is not uncommon for them to catch a frog and bring it home. They keep it alive in the bottom of their hole. It eats mosquitoes and lives …until I guess it escapes.
Also saw a Night jar bird. An owl type.
Back at the lodge you do get some interesting roommates. Many cockroaches and others. First night I put tablets out for the morning, They were chewed to pieces by morning. But at least the beasts don’t have to worry about malaria or altitude sickness.
Day 13. 15th Sept. Peruvian Amazon.
Breakfast at 5am for a 5.30 departure for today’s adventure.
We had to walk along, down, up and back down to the river. Then Rock-hop and into the long boat. We saw Tamarin Monkeys on the walk to the boat. Cute as.
We were heading off to “Tres Chimbadas Lagos” for a trip on a catamaran. A 50 min long boat trip then up the stairs and a 45 minute jungle walk. Beautiful
A colony of ants were preparing their defense against something. Hundreds were at the mouth of the tunnel zipping around in a clockwise circle. Fantastic.
Down a bank and onto the ‘catamaran’. Two large canoes with a platform on top and chairs. We then spent the next few hours floating along on this amazing lake. No engine. Just a huge traditional paddle that was pushed by hand.
So many amazing birds. Including probably my best photo ever. A Sunbitten in flight. Damn. What a bird. Should be called a “painted..” something or other.
Part of the lake is a no go zone as it’s where the Giant River Otters live. Up to 2 meters long. And we did see them. From a distance but they were out hunting. Heads bobbing up and down.
While we sat watching the guides threw in a line (line on a stick) and caught a few Yellow bellied Piranhas. Tiny little guys with razor teeth.
We saw some of the most amazing birds.
We could hear a donkey braying off in the jungle. The guides got excited. They pointed out some huge birds sitting at the top of the trees.
Horned Screamers. Black and gray with a scaly white neck and belly. They are so named as they have a huge unicorn horn. They like to bray in duet so it was funny. We later saw more on the banks.
And then we started to see what the guides called “Pre Historic Birds”of “Stinky Birds”. Hoatzin! Sensational.
A big chunky brown bird with a tiny blue head. An orange mohawk and a small beak. They are quite clumsy (partly because of their huge craw full of fermenting plant life) and bash into branches. Fossil evidence shows they have barely changed in 25 million years.
They have a special bacteria in their gut that ferments the plants they eat. This gives them a “disagreeable, manure-like odour” thus the name.
Awesome time.
We went back and had lunch then some of us did a walk to “the tower”. A huge iron tower used by researchers – and crazy people.
Birds. Insects. And a new monkey to me, Titi Monkeys.
A line of Leaf Cutter Ants were marching across the path. All carrying a piece of freshly cut leaf. Thumbnail sized.
And further on Soldiers ants in formation.
A few creeks were crossed by suspension bridges were great. So springy. These bridges were under water two weeks ago when they had a few days of rain.
The tower was built for observing. 45 meters up a narrow staircase. Over 200 steps each way.
But the views were great. It was so good looking at the crowns of the trees.
And the Amazon Forest really does go on and on.
After dinner some of us went out on the long boat for a bit of Caymen spotting. But of course the walk – along, down, up along and down, then rock hopping to the boat. We saw a few Caymen. Cappaburra and stopped in silence to look at the sky. Fantastic.
After tossing a number of cockroaches and other things from my bed last night I decided to sleep without the princess net. Much better. They were getting in so I wanted them to be able to get out.
Fireflies flitted out around the bedroom screens – not windows as there was no glass.
Day 14. 16th Sept. Peruvian Amazon to Sacred Valley.
Sleep in! Breakfast wasn’t until 7.30. But no chance of a sleep in due to the neighbors getting up. Lol.
We started the day with packing up and walked back to the boat.But a few birds first. Social Flycatcher. Yellow Rumper Cacique. Down to the boat with our gear and back to Port Maldonado.
The trip was only 90 min as we were with the current.
We saw some playful and even amorous Macaws by the mineral wall and a huge family of Cappaburras. Although none were riding their mothers back across the river.
The walk up our last ricketty stair war was good.
We flew into Cusco and on getting off the plane could immediately feel the altitude. 3,400 meters. Then a 90 min bus ride to the hotel. The drive along Sacred Valley was stunning. Hanging Glaciers and all.
We checked into our glorious hotel. Amazing and had a stunning dinner including …Guniea Pig. Fantastic. Like a mix of pork belly and quail. (I ate it here as it was cooked and served in quarters – not a full pig standing on the plate with its giant teeth exposed).